Squid Island

Sunset at Had Farang

It’s a little while since we moved on from Koh Mook (which translates as Squid Island in Thai), but it we were all rather sad to leave it behind – until we got here to Koh Libong, it was definitely our favourite island.

We stayed on Had Farang, the same beach where Janet and I spent several weeks last time we were backpacking. At that time – in 2000 – the wide, curving, white-sand beach ended with a stack of boulders to the south and an impressive sea cliff to the north; behind, it was backed by a large, empty coconut plantation; and all the bungalows were hidden behind the tree line at the very edges. It really felt like a desert island. Apart from a single longtail that was generally moored in the harbour, you could easily imagine that you had the whole island to yourself.

This time around, although the beach remains the same, the coconut plantation has been cut down and replaced with the brash, new “Charlie’s Resort” with its swimming pool, beach umbrellas and a cocktail bar pumping out Ibiza dance hits. And there are now so many longtails at the water’s edge that a section has had to be cordoned off for swimming.

Yet, despite the changes, we all still loved Had Farang. Crowded as it is, the beach remains beautiful and is big enough to accommodate the increased numbers. The views re still stunning, the water still clear (and unlike Koh Jum, actually cooler than the air so it feels refreshing when you jump in after baking in the tropical sun). Watching the sunsets in the evenings at Chill Out Bar (far enough along not to hear Charlie’s cheesy music), it was easy to see why we’d loved it here before.

Plus there were new discoveries. We passed a small massage hut on the way to and from our little bungalows. In the day we would stop there to admire the grimacing faces of farangs on the painful end of a joint-wrenching Thai massage, and in the evenings, we would duck down underneath and marvel at the hundreds of hermit crabs which congregated there. They were charming, each with its different scavenged shell; clumsy, hairy legs protruding from underneath like Jim Henson glove puppets.

We also had several fun activity days. We wandered across the island through rubber plantations, touching and stretching the rubber as it oozed from the trunks. We hired sea canoes and explored the cliffs to the north. And, best of all, we hired a longtail and guide to take us into Emerald Cave, a hidden cove only reachable at low tide by swimming through pitch-black tunnels. Emerald Cave was only rediscovered using satellite imagery but had once been the home of pirates and smugglers. It was also one of the main inspirations for The Beach. Check out the girls’ reports of the trip here, here and here.

As I finished writing, I asked Evie what her opinion of the island was. Her reply was simple: “I absolutely loved Koh Mook!”

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Indispensible Travelling Gear for Backpacking with Kids

Rucksacks on a Longtail

In no particular order, here are some of the things that have proved their worth time and time gain in the last (nearly) six months of backpacking round Asia with our kids.

  1.  Packing cubes. Who wouldn’t pay a few quid to not have to rummage constantly through their rucksack, which, let’s face it is one of the main occupations of most backpackers. Plus, you can unpack into a wardrobe or onto shelves and back into your rucksack in minutes. We’ve got three sizes. Small (for pants, socks and small stuff like spare pens and pencils). Large are for clothes. The kids clothes are organized by temperature. Mine is by tops and bottoms. Janet’s is jumpers and everything else. Im not entirely sure why she has a whole big cube of jumpers when it’s 30 degrees unless she’s compensating for the regret of not bringing one at all last time we travelled. There’s also a large one of tech stuff (adapters, chargers, wires, card readers, etc.) Medium is a bit more random. Basically, it’s everything else: shoes, games, toiletries, mosquito repellents… Our packing cubes have also proved useful as substitute pillows on many occasions (Janet’s jumper cube is the best).
  2. Inflatable mattresses. These are amazing. They were expensive but they’ve more than paid for themselves in being able to all share a hotel room rather than booking two. And they’re just so small – they roll up to twice the size of a can of beans and weigh only the same as one can. While we rarely use all three, they’ve come in useful everywhere from airport stopovers to desert island bamboo huts.
  3. Penknives. I have a big man-size Victorinox. Janet has a dainty ladies one. The kids were so jealous that we bought them their own little ones for Christmas.  Without these we’d be at the mercy of splinters, unopenable beer bottles, impregnable tin cans, unrippable-open packets, unclipped toenails, condiments in need of spreading (I’ve carried Marmite with me the whole way, so far), sticks needing whittling and innumerable other small emergencies.
  4. Anthisan. Tropical countries: beautiful landscapes, horrible insects. We bought an entire chemist’s stock before we left but still had to ask my mum to send us more. Works better on mozzie bites than anything else we’ve ever tried. For preventing the bites in the first place, we use industrial-strength Deet.
  5. Travel Kettle. We wouldn’t have thought of this had we not met a travelling couple who had one in Nepal. We very quickly developed kettle envy. No more extortionately-priced cups of tea for us now though. Plus there’s the possibility of Pot Noodles, Milo, Ovaltine, hot chocolate… Has paid for itself many, many times over.
  6. Swoosher. Janet loves this. I mean loves. She exalts in how great it is pretty much every time we move accommodation. More commonly known in the UK (and everywhere else) as a squeegee, to be fair, it is great for getting the water out of the many poorly-drained bathrooms we’ve had. Bought in Pokhara, Nepal, for about 20p, who knows how many slips-and-falls this has saved us from.  Has also removed enough sand to fill Blackpool beach from our island-hopping bungalows. And was essential in keeping Tettie’s cast dry.
  7. Kindles. There’s no way we could have carried around the number of books our kids have read since we set off. And while you can pick up random adult paperbacks at guesthouses, there’s very rarely any aimed at kids. Even better, me and Janet have Paperlights which let us read after the girls have gone to sleep when we’re all sharing a room.
  8. Sarongs. In Nepal, we visited a tailor and get a sarong each made from nice, loose-weave cotton. All five weight less than one towel, are bigger, dry faster and can also be used as a frock (for Janet and our girls, not me – I’m far too manly).
  9. A Bum Bag. Not cool. Not flattering. But incredibly useful when you’re harried, tired, late, laden down with backpacks, frontpacks, shoulderbags and clinging children, racing for a bus and need to find your tickets. Or to always know you have loo roll and hand sanitizer in loo-rolless, unsanitary toilets. I just keep my stuff in Janet’s to maintain my cool image (because it’s cool to be harried, tired, late, laden down with backpacks and kids and racing for a bus as long as you don’t wear a bum bag, right?).
  10. Waterproof Cast Cover.  Ok, this one is rather specific to us but wow! did it ever improve our trip. Without it, we would have spent six weeks on Thailand’s beaches, coasts and resorts with swimming pools without Scarlett ever being able to enter the water. I can only imagine how jealous she would have been of her sisters, and when she was forbidden on doctor’s orders from running or jumping, it as only in the water that she had real freedom.

So there you have it. Ten things that have proved themselves useful as we travelled. There are others, of course – gaffa tape, super glue, hand sanitizer, carabiners, buffs, Crocs for the kids, our collection of portable card and board games, our incredibly-light MacBook Air laptop – but these have definitely been the stars of the show.

Also, Evie points out that rucksacks should really be on this list, which is true… but you know that already, right?

Our Andaman Sea Island-Hopping Route

Andaman Coast Island Hopping Map

It’s occurred to me that all the little islands we’ve been visiting on Thailand’s west coast are probably so much gobbledegook to most people, so I knocked up this map to illustrate our route. Hopefully it will make it easier to see where we are as we travel.

We started at the top of the Andaman Coast, arriving on Ko Chang on the 29th of January, and since then we’ve headed south, moving on every 4-5 days. If we stick to our itinerary, we should hit Langkawi (and Malaysia) on the 20th of March, for nearly 2 long, idle months of island life. Maybe it’ll even be long enough for Janet to start getting a tan.

The Shell Sprouts Legs!

Hermit Crabs at Had Farang, Koh Mook

By Scarlett

One night, here at Ko Mook, we found a mass of hermit crabs under the Thai massage hut.  They had all different shells which made them look pretty.  Coming back the next morning, we found they were all gone!  Had they all died?  But the next night, they had come back.  I picked up a supposedly unused shell which immediately sprouted unexpected legs!  I was terrified.  I dropped it.  Do you think you would have dropped it too?

Emerald Cave

Swimming into Emerald Cave

By Evie

Today we went to Emerald Cave (in 4 steps):

Step 1

We walked about 3 metres to the boat, waded out to it and got on.  Our guide started the engine and we were off, zooming along, the engine roaring and popping behind us, as we made our way towards Emerald Cave.

Step 2

As we went I kept a sharp lookout for Emerald Cave.  Then I saw it.  At first I saw only boats, and then the cave.  Soon, I knew we would be in a long, dark tunnel, swimming with our guide.

“OK Evie, put this on,” Mummy said, jerking me out of my thoughts.  She was holding out a small life jacket for me.  I took it and put it on.  Next I asked Mummy if she was scared like me.  She said she wasn’t.  I gulped.  Then Mummy jumped off the boat.  Then I jumped off the boat.  Then Mima jumped off the boat.  Then Tettie jumped off the boat.  Then Daddy dived off the boat (without a life jacket).

Step 3

When finally we were all in the water, our guide led us over to a creepy, cavernous, cold cave in the side of the low-hanging cliff…

We swam in!

Inside the cave it was no better than it had looked, just a long tunnel leading off into the distance.  Then it began to grow dark.  I couldn’t see…until the guide switched on his torch.

Step 4

I could hear the waves crashing against the cliff walls with great thunderous BOOMS!  Only then I saw the light, we were approaching Emerald Cave.  I swam fast towards it until I reached the light, first.  But not by far, my sisters were catching up fast.  Soon we were all there.  It looked like a secret cove with a small beach and big cliffs surrounding it.  The only entrance or exit was the tiny dark cave.

Me and Daddy went and looked at some rocks that looked like dinosaurs and then I went in the sea and played silent gliders with my sisters, which is a game where we swim very quietly towards each other and attack (splashing each other).

[Evie and her sisters all wrote about our trip to Emerald Cave as part of homeschool. You can read the other accounts here and here.]

An Adventure in a Sea of Emerald Green

Emerald Cave

By Scarlett

Today we went to Emerald Cave on a longtail boat.  The engine was loud but we put up with it.  When we got to Emerald Cave, there was a long tunnel we had to swim through.  So, leaving the boat and putting on life jackets that rubbed our arms off, we jumped into the water.  Mummy first, them Evie, then Mima, then Tettie, then Daddy.  We followed our guide into the tunnel.  The water washing on the tunnel wall made an echo like ghosts howling.  At the end of the tunnel there was a beach surrounded by cliffs.  The emerald green water lapped gently against the sand.  The only opening was the tunnel we’d come through.

We were silent gliders for a while, before going back on the same longtail boat.  Silent gliders is a game that we play when we are wearing life jackts.  We move really quietly towards each other…and attack! (Splash each other).  We enjoy it a lot.

[Scarlett and her sisters all wrote about our trip to Emerald Cave as part of homeschool. You can read the other accounts here and here.]

A Tunnel Full of Emerald

Emerald Cave, Ko Muk (Image from Google as we didn't take a camera)

By Jemima

Today we did something totally amazing!  Well, it doesn’t start off sounding brilliant.  First we were woken up by mummy, and then we got dressed.  Then she realised she hadn’t suncreamed us – disaster!  We had to get undressed again – even more disaster!  It was kind of lucky though because I realised I had normal knickers on, instead of bikini bottoms.  We got dressed for the second time, and Daddy got back from his run.  Then me, Evie, Tettie and Mummy went to the café for breakfast.  We ordered muesli, fruit and yogurt.  We ordered Daddy fruit and yogurt.  In a couple of minuites, Daddy came and ate his up.  YUM! YUM! YUM!!!!

When we had finished we waked down the beach, then we waded out a little way to the boat where we climbed up the ladder; we were on the boat!  We sat on hard wooden benches for a while, talking.  Then the engine started up and the boat turned around.  Soon we found ourselves zooming through the sea, with a cliff on one side.  In a matter of minuites we came to a group of other longtail boats, where we stopped.  The man – our guide – put down the ladder again.  We put on our lifejackets – Daddy didn’t want one.

On the boat I had been scared that the rocks would fall on top of us.  But when we got into the tunnel it wasn’t that bad.  We swam along around dark corners we didn’t know were there.  Mummy nearly bumped her head.   It was pitch black, but our guide had a torch.  When we arrived at last, I saw Emerald Cave.  I was surprised.  I hadn’t expected it to be like this.

We were in a secret cave or beach.  There were cliffs on all sides.  On one side, there is sand – the beach.  If you stand on the beach and face the sea, you can see an enclosure of rock, except for the tunnel.  In front of you there is a sheer cliff face with the tunnel poking through, like a straw.  On the left, there is another sheer rock face but with no tunnel, and on the right there is another sheer cliff face with no tunnel.  The strange thing is that there were no crabs on the rocks, not one!

We played for a bit then began to swim back down the tunnel.  As we went along people kept making spooky ghost noises which helped a lot – not!

Soon we began to see light.  We swam along into glowing emerald water and got out in the open at last.  It was good to see light all around us – we could see!  There were fish all around us too.  We boarded the boat and the engine started up for the second time and we were off again.  Soon we were back on our beach.  We had a little swim, then we went back to the bungalow and Daddy had a little sleep while mummy read us Harry Potter.

When Daddy woke up, we went and had some Thai tea.  After that, we went to bed.

Thank goodness it’s the end of the day.  That was a very long blogpost – my arm is tired.  Phew!  Zzzzzzz rec.

[Jemima and her sisters all wrote about our trip to Emerald Cave as part of homeschool. You can read the other accounts here and here. The “rec” at the end is because we have been learning about recurring decimals in maths…]

Lazy Island Days

Another week, another island. This week: Koh Jum, our third island since we started island hopping down the Andaman Coast.

Our first two were at the north end of the coast (Koh Chang and Koh Payam), then after a stop on the mainland so I could go diving*, we missed out quite a lot of the coast to get where we are now. We’ve been to Samui and Pattaya and know for sure that it’s not overdeveloped resorts like Phuket and Koh Phi Phi we’re after.

It’s very relaxed here. Most of the farangs are older than us, and the pace of life is possibly the slowest of anywhere we’ve yet visited. There’s nothing to do but swim, walk up the 2km beach and eat. But, just as we’re settling in here, enjoying the stunning sunsets, friendly bungalows, huge, empty beach and bathtub-warm sea water, tomorrow we’re off again!

Sixty days on our visas doesn’t go far when there’s so many islands to visit. So tomorrow we head south again, getting up early to catch a longtail to a ferry, then a ferry to the Krabi on the mainland, a taxi into Krabi town, then a bus to Trang 100km down the road. We’ll spend the night there, stocking up on essentials like peanut M&Ms and red wine, before taking minibuses, ferries and longtails out to Koh Mook, one of our favourite places from our backpacking trip 13 years ago where we will slow right down for another five days.

All very exciting. But right now, sitting in a beach hut watching my girls play on the sand as the sun dips slowly towards the crystal seas, it all seems rather daunting. Island life has slowed me down so much that just walking to the sea to cool off or to the restaurant for a fruit shake can take half the day for me to muster enough energy.

Still, frenetic bursts of travelilng interspersing the lazy weeks of beach bumming makes this part of our trip seem like a series of one week Summer holidays, a new one starting every time the last one ends. And how can that be a bad thing?

* That implies I went diving on land, I didn’t. I just left Janet and the girls there and headed of to the Similan Islands.